Solvent-welded sockets.
- 01Cut the pipe end square, deburr it and chamfer the outside edge at about 15° before inserting it into the fitting socket.
- 02Apply primer or cleaner to both the fitting socket and the pipe spigot to soften the contact surfaces.
- 03Apply a smooth, even layer of solvent cement (medium or heavy body) axially: thicker on the pipe, thinner inside the socket.
- 04Insert the pipe fully without turning, hold it firmly for 15–30 seconds so the taper does not push it out, and wipe away excess cement at once.
Flanged connections.
Ideal for transitions to pumps or metal butterfly valves, and for points that must be disconnected for maintenance.
- 01Align the flanges parallel before tightening. Never use the bolts to pull misaligned piping together: this puts excessive bending stress on UPVC fittings.
- 02Use elastomer gaskets (EPDM or FPM) and tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, in several steps, up to the recommended torque.
Threaded joints.
- 01Use PTFE tape or a non-hardening thread sealant compatible with UPVC.
- 02Do not over-tighten: hand-tight plus one or two turns at most, to avoid hoop-stress cracking in female threads.
- 03Never use hemp or pastes that soften plastics.
Allow for thermal expansion.
UPVC has high dimensional stability, but its coefficient of linear thermal expansion (0.08 mm/m·°C) must be considered when routing lines.
Place pipe brackets and guides close to heavy valves and fitting junctions to carry their loads, without clamping directly onto the fitting body, so straight runs can expand and contract freely.